How To Transform Heirloom Jewelry Into a Diamond Engagement Ring of Your Dreams
WHAT IS IT LIKE TO REIMAGINE HEIRLOOMS INTO UNIQUE GEMSTONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS?
Heirloom jewelry can carry a sentimental, personal connection imbued with love, whether it’s a ring, necklace, bracelet, or earrings.
When it comes to engagement rings, choosing colored gemstones or diamonds harvested from vintage or antique jewelry are beneficial for many reasons - especially as we make intentional choices that align with our values.
Beyond a family connection, another wonderful facet about working with heirlooms is that they support Climate Action and the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
Whether they are 4 or 400 years old, they have already incurred a cost in their carbon footprint.
Diamonds cut over 100 years ago with hands and eyes (versus math and science with machines) were faceted for different lighting conditions and have unique shapes that play with light differently!
Read on as I share the process of bringing a new story to this special family diamond!
THE COLLABORATION WITH JOHANNA GAUDER
Let’s dive into the brief, starting with some logistics…
Though I am based in New York City, the gentleman seeking to reimagine his family heirloom as a diamond engagement ring is from Germany.
He wanted to support a German artisan with a certain aesthetic. Through my vetted global network of talented women, Johanna Gauder was without any question the perfect designer!
Beyond her clean, geometric, minimalist design signature, she is an awesome person and a joy to partner with!
Her entire creative process was documented with photos and video to guide the customer through design options and bring him behind the scenes as the design progressed… and you will be too!
ON HARVESTING HEIRLOOM GEMSTONES
Anytime gemstones are harvested from jewelry, there is a very small chance the diamond or colored gemstone can be damaged. Sometimes during generations of wear, gems may have incurred scratches, microscopic cracks, or fractures.
Of course delicate care is always involved in the harvesting process to ensure the gem is removed intact!
THE DIAMOND
Johanna was able to meet the customer one-on-one in his city to view and collect the piece before bringing it to her studio in Berlin.
This gorgeous 2.01 carat 8.05 mm brilliant cut diamond was formerly bezel set in a pendant. When freed of the setting, we were in awe of her size and beauty!
THE DESIGN PROCESS
For this diamond and platinum engagement ring, two design directions were considered:
Solitaire: a design with the diamond solo
Solitaire with side stones: a design with the diamond flanked by side diamonds
When it comes to side diamonds, it is ideal to match the color and clarity of the main diamond.
Proportion and shape also play a significant role in the aesthetics of the design to achieve visual harmony.
Because this heirloom diamond was so spectacular, the “diamond solo” direction was the unanimous way forward!
DESIGNED FOR BEAUTY AND COMFORT
Next was selecting the design and width of the shank.
What is a shank? The shank is the element of a ring that encircles the finger and supports the setting.
Beyond beauty, comfort is too often an overlooked consideration for a ring meant to be worn every day for life!
With this in mind, the shank was designed to be rounded on the outside and flat on the inside to wear next to an eternity ring.
Another aspect of the design was exploring proportion variations of the shank that would best complement the size of the diamond. The 2.0 mm option was the unanimous choice!
MADE BY HER HANDS
Johanna’s signature work is a discerning balance of two disciplines: designer and goldsmith.
Here’s a peek at the high quality and technical precision involved in her creations.
What you see here is Johanna pulling platinum through a draw plate. Once the desired width is pulled, the segment is cut to a length that, when soldered, is a ring size 5.5 (US).
The same pulling process is employed to carefully craft the other elements that make up the setting, which will hold the diamond.
The setting is then soldered to the shank, with a portion of the shank being removed to create space for the culet - the bottom of the diamond where all the facets converge to a tiny point.
A NOTE ON SETTING DIAMONDS AND COLORED GEMSTONES
Setting gemstones in jewelry is a discipline in and of itself! Different gemstones have specific considerations when setting, which require experienced eyes and practiced hands.
For example, brittle gems like emeralds have natural inclusions and require delicacy to avoid pressure on areas that may cause a crack or shatter the gem. Similarly, softer gemstones like Tanzanite, opal, and emerald are not ideal candidates for engagement rings or rings you wear every day because contact with hard surfaces can scratch or damage them. Ideally, the setting is designed to protect such gems from accidental bumps.
If a gemstone has any small imperfections near the girdle (the thin perimeter of a gem where the crown and pavilion meet), an accomplished setter may be able to minimize or hide it beneath a prong while ensuring the gemstone is secure and protected from everyday wear.
THE MOHS SCALE
Gemstones that are on the harder end of the Mohs Scale, like diamonds (at 10), sapphires and rubies (at 9), or spinel (at 8) are ideal for engagement rings or rings that will be worn every day.
THE BEAUTIFUL HEIRLOOM ENGAGEMENT RING WITH A NEW LIFE AND STORY
Johanna and I were honored and delighted to transform this stunning diamond pendant into a breathtaking engagement ring!
It’s beautiful, exactly what I wanted.
MAKING YOUR EMERALD CUT DIAMOND OR RUBY ENGAGEMENT RING A REALITY
Here’s what to expect when we work together.
Beyond a unique ring design, we explore how the gemstones you choose can align with your values, be it climate action or supporting the UN Sustainable Development Goals.
Once you have a clear budget, I can either:
curate ready-made engagement ring options
create a bespoke engagement ring of your dreams
For a custom engagement ring, I can create a design around an heirloom diamond or colored gemstone. Alternatively, I can source a variety of responsibly sourced gemstone options including:
post consumer recycled diamonds or responsibly sourced natural diamonds
responsibly sourced colored gemstones (including those mined by women)
laboratory grown diamonds, created with 100% solar power and cut in India
Think of me as your engagement ring guide, helping you intentionally invest in a future heirloom that celebrates your story, connection, and symbolizes your enduring love.
SHOP DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS THAT ARE DESIGNED WITH INTENTION
SHOP ETERNITY RINGS TO COMPLEMENT YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING
Protect Your New Piece for Peace of Mind
Insurance for your family heirlooms, engagement rings, and other fine jewelry is highly recommended.
Be sure you are clear about what is (and isn’t) covered by homeowners insurance.
While worldwide travel and theft are usually covered, be sure you know if loss, damage, and disappearance are covered.
For any significant jewelry purchase, I always encourage Jewelers Mutual - separate from homeowners insurance because of this.
I’ve arranged for them to provide valuable information about protecting your pieces.
Join our BRILLIANT community of women leaders!
Sign up to enjoy empowering conversations, insider access to shop coveted jewelry, and style tips to ensure you feel confident, seen, and powerful!
